moocowinthecity

All Roads Meet in Jerusalem (Israel Update III)

moocowinthecity Jun 10, 2007 0 Comments

Shalom Friends :o)

We left off at Shabbat after shopping at the Shook:

Shabbat was spent at a beautiful Reform Synagogue in Tel Aviv. The walls were bright and yellow and vibrant, and this round room was decorated with prayers in calligraphy on the walls and metal sculptures hung to accent the prayers; you just felt like you were outside in a garden. As the Cantor’s voice resonated throughout the room, a bird who came to join us flew back and forth and after davening a bit, eventually got himself perched where he was comfortable too. The Rabbi, so calm (and, in a lot of ways, like Rabbi Harvey), brought smiles to everyone and while some of the prayers were new, most were very, very familiar. People arrived in shorts, in t-shirts, in wrinkled suit jackets and sandals…and it wasn’t about clothes or looks or labels…it was about spirit, and connection, and rest…”who cares what you’re dressed like, it’s Shabbat, and you’re here, and you’re with us!”…it was truly wonderful to be a part of their congregation and to take part in Shabbat with
them.

After Havadallah on Saturday I packed for Sunday.

Early Sunday morning, after some breakfast, we took the bus from Tel Aviv and made our way into the center of Jerusalem. We stopped to pick up a few things I needed, and then we headed over to Jaffa Gate…and we walked on through…and then, we were in Jerusalem, in the Old City. We continued down slick stone steps, slowly, with all of their twists and turns, walking under awnings and porches and past iron gates, and we arrived at the Western Wall…I was finally ‘home’.

After washing my hands, I approached the wall and leaned on it, I kissed the wall and emotions just overcame me as I cried with happiness…I was (I am!) in Jerusalem, in the Old City and as tears strolled down my cheek I prayed and felt such a calmness run throughout my body and my soul (and if you gave me a prayer to leave in the wall, it was tucked into the wall, safe and sound).

As I prayed and cried, an older man placed his hand upon my head and said a prayer for me (which I thanked him for) and then I made my way into the underground area where I prayed some more and read from the book of Psalms.

After about an hour we got up to explore some more, and as we were leaving I ran into a friend of Rabbi Gurary who is the Rabbi I know on the University at Buffalo’s Campus (Rabbi G: Shmuli Weiss from Jerusalem says “hi!”) and later I would run into the gentleman who I shared a seat with on the El Al flight here (also at the Western Wall)…all roads really do cross in Jerusalem, and I’ve already made some new friends here so hopefully our paths will cross, and cross again.

We had lunch at the Austrian Hospice in Jerusalem where I got to use one of the two German words I know (“Danke”) and enjoyed some good food. We made our way to the Muslim Quarter, and walked through the Arabic Shook where the smell of resin and incense fills you and ignites your imagination (and magic, flying carpets are everywhere…no, really if you don’t believe me, go and see for yourself…they even let you take them for a test ride), and wonderful food is cooking in every window next to stores that sell the latest in both religious and western fashion (lots, and lots of designer underwear in the Arabic Shook. which sort of took me by surprise). We walked through the Jewish Quarter as well and enjoyed the sound and smell of their markets and made our way through the Christian Quarter and their markets…until we approached an ancient church, and entered. The church has been around (if I recall correctly, from about 218 A.C.E.) and as we walked through, the solemn
calmness of this cavernous, mostly underground church overcomes you and you stand in Awe.

I purchased two candles from the priest (a Shekel each) and I lit them (one for Debbie and one for Voula, who I worked with at the Pharmacy back home). After this Itai and I sat for some rest, and then we got some dinner and talked some more. After dinner we said our goodbyes as he went to head back to Tel Aviv and I went to go register at Heritage House which is a free youth hostel for Jewish Travelers; less than a two minute walking distance from The Wall. I walked in, and they were the most friendly people (friendly and genuine) right from the start. The hostel is lovely, and clean and very much in the style of Jerusalem, with a garden and a porch and the inside of the house becomes outside and vice-versa (much like an Escher drawing, actually). There’s a lounge (and a computer with free Internet that I’m typing to you on).

The person sharing my dormitory with me is lovely, he’s French and Israeli and speaks French and Hebrew and very, very little English which is just great. Other people staying in the Hostel are fun too and we’ve been hanging out downstairs talking, getting to know each other, and having just a marvelous time.

Heritage House closes at 9am daily (which is when they lock all the doors and everyone leaves to go explore for the day) and re-opens their doors at 7:00pm, and then closes down the front door again at 12:00am (1:30am on Shabbat) so it’s incredibly, incredibly convenient, safe and welcoming.

If Tel Aviv, which is beautiful and almost beyond compare, can be described as Silver…it exists to hold up, to set, the Diamond that is Jerusalem.

Tomorrow will be a somber day as I will be heading to Yad Vashem to see the Holocaust Museum and the Memorials. Tuesday will be spent getting lost in Jerusalem so I can learn it by foot (and taking plenty of photographs) and the rest of the week (except for Shabbat) is pretty much up for grabs: I have plenty of sites outlined on my map that I want to see, and I’m sure after I’m done seeing those I’ll discover some more along the way.

Tomorrow (the 11th) is also my Father’s birthday, so Happy Birthday Dad!

More updates as I have them!

Love,

M

Israel Update 2/Shabbat Shalom!

moocowinthecity Jun 8, 2007 0 Comments

Yesterday (Thursday) I went with Itai first to Tel Aviv University and saw the campus…which is more of a resort, really; not that serious academic work doesn’t get done there, just that the campus looks and feels like it should be a part of Club Med (couches, coffee bars a plenty and palm trees are everywhere). There are gorgeous buildings and a breath taking synagogue on campus designed with beautiful wood furnishings.

There are also a lot of Campus Cats that just sort of lounge about the way that cats manage to do and I can imagine provide much needed distraction and comfort during exam times (something that I personally think UB should start to think about…we can start by adding some Cats to the libraries, and if that works well, then we can add them to the Student Union as well).

After checking out the campus and looking around we made our way down to Jaffa.

Jaffa is south of Tel Aviv and has wonderful old buildings and stone steps; signs are in Arabic as much as they are in Hebrew and the smell of coffee is always on the tip of your nose. Here too, scooters and motorcycles whiz by and dogs and cats walk freely around (all quite friendly and wanting to come up and say hello with a wagging tail and a licking tongue). With a history that includes Napoleon, there are signs everywhere documenting the past to modern day/present and there are countless restaurants to choose from if you should get hungry (though I’ve found, overall, that I much prefer the street food; not only is it cheaper and healthier — depending what you eat — but it’s tastier too!).

We stopped inside a little cafe/bookstore which I’m told is owned jointly by an Arab and a Jew; which in its own, quiet way sends a message. As we were walking back to where we needed to catch we randomly got caught up in a street festival! There were performance artists and dancers and vendors and everything you should expect from a street fair. There was also a wonderful fresh fruit drink stand where they would mix whatever fruit you wanted with ice water for you to drink on the spot (I recommend Plum and Cantaloupe) which is something that, while delicious, for the sake of my waist I think I’ll be only having as a rare treat. I also sampled some Almond Juice which was on par with Ambrosia, should you have the opportunity to try it.

Hopping on a bus to take us back to where we needed to go, the bus driver asked my friend where I was from, and when he heard I was from New York he told me all about his family in Queens. We spoke at some length and he was proud to tell me how he learned English by speaking to travelers and all about his wife and children (whom he clearly adores)…and it was wonderful. His English was top notch too.

Arriving back into the area where I’m staying I dropped off some of my things and Itai went to rest while I headed out to Club diva where the bartenders are fun and welcoming, the music nice and loud and a mixture of Israeli Pop and 90’s Pop from the U.S. are spun.

Friday (Today)

We woke up and had breakfast and headed down to Rabin Square and then over to Gordon Beach for Gay Pride. The Rainbow flags flying next to the Israeli flags were flying everywhere, beautiful people of all genders and orientations walking around and music was playing (music, I’ve found, is an integral part of life here in Tel Aviv, it’s playing wherever you go) and it was just awesome to see! Apparently 15,000 people attended which is certainly something.

After seeing the sites we came back up and went to the Shook before it closed to get food for the weekend and to make Shabbat Dinner (the produce is so fresh and the bread that I described earlier is flaky and just far too tasty to be anywhere near good for you!). We’ll be heading to Synagogue for services shortly and then back to his apartment to eat.

Sunday

On Sunday I’ll be saying Goodbye to Itai in Tel Aviv for awhile and heading East to Jerusalem where I’ll be staying for a little over a week by train (the 10th through the 18th) and then heading up to Nazareth on the 19th where I’ll be staying with my friend Shirah (who I went to High School with and who I took Arabic with at University) who is living there now…and then I’ll work out the rest of my game plan!

Shabbat Shalom!

– M

Israel Update 2/Shabbat Shalom!

moocowinthecity Jun 8, 2007 0 Comments

Yesterday (Thursday) I went with Itai first to Tel Aviv University and saw the campus…which is more of a resort, really; not that serious academic work doesn’t get done there, just that the campus looks and feels like it should be a part of Club Med (couches, coffee bars a plenty and palm trees are everywhere). There are gorgeous buildings and a breath taking synagogue on campus designed with beautiful wood furnishings.

There are also a lot of Campus Cats that just sort of lounge about the way that cats manage to do and I can imagine provide much needed distraction and comfort during exam times (something that I personally think UB should start to think about…we can start by adding some Cats to the libraries, and if that works well, then we can add them to the Student Union as well).

After checking out the campus and looking around we made our way down to Jaffa.

Jaffa is south of Tel Aviv and has wonderful old buildings and stone steps; signs are in Arabic as much as they are in Hebrew and the smell of coffee is always on the tip of your nose. Here too, scooters and motorcycles whiz by and dogs and cats walk freely around (all quite friendly and wanting to come up and say hello with a wagging tail and a licking tongue). With a history that includes Napoleon, there are signs everywhere documenting the past to modern day/present and there are countless restaurants to choose from if you should get hungry (though I’ve found, overall, that I much prefer the street food; not only is it cheaper and healthier — depending what you eat — but it’s tastier too!).

We stopped inside a little cafe/bookstore which I’m told is owned jointly by an Arab and a Jew; which in its own, quiet way sends a message. As we were walking back to where we needed to catch we randomly got caught up in a street festival! There were performance artists and dancers and vendors and everything you should expect from a street fair. There was also a wonderful fresh fruit drink stand where they would mix whatever fruit you wanted with ice water for you to drink on the spot (I recommend Plum and Cantaloupe) which is something that, while delicious, for the sake of my waist I think I’ll be only having as a rare treat. I also sampled some Almond Juice which was on par with Ambrosia, should you have the opportunity to try it.

Hopping on a bus to take us back to where we needed to go, the bus driver asked my friend where I was from, and when he heard I was from New York he told me all about his family in Queens. We spoke at some length and he was proud to tell me how he learned English by speaking to travelers and all about his wife and children (whom he clearly adores)…and it was wonderful. His English was top notch too.

Arriving back into the area where I’m staying I dropped off some of my things and Itai went to rest while I headed out to Club diva where the bartenders are fun and welcoming, the music nice and loud and a mixture of Israeli Pop and 90’s Pop from the U.S. are spun.

Friday (Today)

We woke up and had breakfast and headed down to Rabin Square and then over to Gordon Beach for Gay Pride. The Rainbow flags flying next to the Israeli flags were flying everywhere, beautiful people of all genders and orientations walking around and music was playing (music, I’ve found, is an integral part of life here in Tel Aviv, it’s playing wherever you go) and it was just awesome to see! Apparently 15,000 people attended which is certainly something.

After seeing the sites we came back up and went to the Shook before it closed to get food for the weekend and to make Shabbat Dinner (the produce is so fresh and the bread that I described earlier is flaky and just far too tasty to be anywhere near good for you!). We’ll be heading to Synagogue for services shortly and then back to his apartment to eat.

Sunday

On Sunday I’ll be saying Goodbye to Itai in Tel Aviv for awhile and heading East to Jerusalem where I’ll be staying for a little over a week by train (the 10th through the 18th) and then heading up to Nazareth on the 19th where I’ll be staying with my friend Shirah (who I went to High School with and who I took Arabic with at University) who is living there now…and then I’ll work out the rest of my game plan!

Shabbat Shalom!

– M

Israel Update 1

moocowinthecity Jun 6, 2007 0 Comments

Hello All,

Today I landed at Ben-Gurion International Airport in Tel Aviv, Israel at 8:00AM. Next to me on the flight was a wonderful educator named Sholom who was incredibly encouraging and gave me some wonderful words of advice and was just a friendly travel companion. There were so many children on the plane and they were all well behaved (some better behaved than their parents!). The flight staff was wonderful, the food actually edible, and mostly I either listened to Israeli Music on my iPod (HaDag NaChash, Subliminal, Ivri Lider and more on the Top 40 list who I can’t remember at the moment) or I slept.

After a quick stop at passport control and customs I made my way to the main greeting area and met up with my friend Itai (a fellow Linguist). After some much needed coffee (which they make nice and strong here) I was ready to start the day and we made our way on the Tel Aviv Train to HaHagana Street Station where I’ll be staying for the first few days (with my gracious host) before I head East to Jerusalem on Sunday (where I’ll be staying at Heritage House) and then north to HaZareah and Nazareth (where I’ll be staying at the Fauzi Azar Inn).

After dropping off my things and showering (after a 9+ hour flight, it’s really better to de-grunge before trying to make new friends in a new country…otherwise, they sort of stand a few feet back and make funny faces at you) we made our way two stops over from the HaHagana Street Station to Arlozorov and strolled through the city as I got myself oriented to the area (water goes left, Jerusalem goes right, Nazareth is up, Eilat is down).

After a quick stop for some Falafel (authentic, even!) we walked thirty minutes to the Beach (the first time I’ve seen the other side of the Atlantic in my life) and I dove in, shorts, t-shirt and all. The water here is crystal clear, you can see perfectly the zig-zagging sand on the bottom as it’s shaped by the waves. The weather is nice and warm and there’s plenty of sun to go around. I swam for about an hour, letting the waves rock me back and forth on my back and while my friend napped, I just relaxed, floating around and taking in all of the people sunbathing (beauty here, is everywhere…I’ve never seen anything like it). I have been more relaxed here, today than I have been anywhere else in months. After I was done swimming in the ocean (and properly soaked) I walked around the beach and eventually wanted to explore some more. Since Itai was tired (rightfully so, he’s been working overtime on a translation piece) he decided to head back to his place and nap while I wandered around Tel Aviv some more and let my clothes dry off with the sun.

The city as a whole is exciting and gorgeous and above all else, just interesting…the buildings are unique and create a style all their own with their cement facades and stucco fronts creating a laid back atmosphere in a country that can be incredibly tense and intense at times. Twisty streets are lined with palm trees and flowers and plants and paved with cut stones; clothing that one no longer wants or needs is just left upon a park bench or a wall for a stranger who may want a skirt, or a shirt, or some designer Diesel underwear (‘eh, someone will pick it up and use it, I’m done with it’) and a multitude of languages are spoken all around you.

In the Shook, there is a smell of fresh produce that just overwhelms the senses. You really have to experience it first hand to understand it, I have no words to do it justice. The fresh baking bread is rolled and baked in front of you, the fresh cut fruits and vegetables are all vibrant and they create a kaleidoscope around you with their wonderful colors. Dogs scurrying around barking and playing with each other (and the children chasing after them) and of course, people everywhere haggling for the best price…all create a cacophony of noise and color that is actually pleasing to the senses rather than alarming or overwhelming. People here are not only practical, but have a wonderful sense of humor and while it’s dry…it keeps you sharp and on your toes. Mostly though, I keep quiet and try to blend into the crowd so I can pay attention and just absorb myself in the language and culture that I find surrounding me.

Everywhere you go here people are on Vespas and Motorcycles or Bikes or Walking or Running or Jogging and the weather is just right to get outside and be active (a stark difference from the cold Buffalo Winters I’ve grown accustomed to after five years at University). Tel Aviv is built for commuters and those who use public transport; which is great given that my preferred method of transportation in any country are my Birkenstocks.

As it turns out, not only am I lucky enough to be in Israel to begin with (which is just, such a blessing to begin with)…but Tel Aviv Pride happens to be this Friday (which I only found out today, by pure chance) and I’ll be attending to show my support for both Israel (who can always use another voice of support) and the LGBT Community here. I’m not sure who the organizers have lined up as entertainment, but I can be reasonably sure that there’ll be good music and dancing and the usual going ons that one finds at Pride.

It is a very weird feeling, walking around going “so this is where it all began…” I have my pocket Tanakh with me acting as one of my historical guides, so to speak and combining that with my map, words of advice from friends, family and the locals I’ve been speaking to…this is lining up to be a wonderful, wonderful trip.

I head to Jerusalem on Sunday by train, instead of bus, so I can take the Scenic route and see some of the country (I’ll be posting photos to my website: nomadmatan.net – shortly). More updates as I can write them.

The current time in Israel is 10:35PM on 2006-June-06; in Long Island, NY it is 3:35PM on 2006-June-06 (there’s a seven-ish hour difference).

Laila Tov! (Goodnight!)

– M

Israel Update 1

moocowinthecity Jun 6, 2007 0 Comments

Hello All,

Today I landed at Ben-Gurion International Airport in Tel Aviv, Israel at 8:00AM. Next to me on the flight was a wonderful educator named Sholom who was incredibly encouraging and gave me some wonderful words of advice and was just a friendly travel companion. There were so many children on the plane and they were all well behaved (some better behaved than their parents!). The flight staff was wonderful, the food actually edible, and mostly I either listened to Israeli Music on my iPod (HaDag NaChash, Subliminal, Ivri Lider and more on the Top 40 list who I can’t remember at the moment) or I slept.

After a quick stop at passport control and customs I made my way to the main greeting area and met up with my friend Itai (a fellow Linguist). After some much needed coffee (which they make nice and strong here) I was ready to start the day and we made our way on the Tel Aviv Train to HaHagana Street Station where I’ll be staying for the first few days (with my gracious host) before I head East to Jerusalem on Sunday (where I’ll be staying at Heritage House) and then north to HaZareah and Nazareth (where I’ll be staying at the Fauzi Azar Inn).

After dropping off my things and showering (after a 9+ hour flight, it’s really better to de-grunge before trying to make new friends in a new country…otherwise, they sort of stand a few feet back and make funny faces at you) we made our way two stops over from the HaHagana Street Station to Arlozorov and strolled through the city as I got myself oriented to the area (water goes left, Jerusalem goes right, Nazareth is up, Eilat is down).

After a quick stop for some Falafel (authentic, even!) we walked thirty minutes to the Beach (the first time I’ve seen the other side of the Atlantic in my life) and I dove in, shorts, t-shirt and all. The water here is crystal clear, you can see perfectly the zig-zagging sand on the bottom as it’s shaped by the waves. The weather is nice and warm and there’s plenty of sun to go around. I swam for about an hour, letting the waves rock me back and forth on my back and while my friend napped, I just relaxed, floating around and taking in all of the people sunbathing (beauty here, is everywhere…I’ve never seen anything like it). I have been more relaxed here, today than I have been anywhere else in months. After I was done swimming in the ocean (and properly soaked) I walked around the beach and eventually wanted to explore some more. Since Itai was tired (rightfully so, he’s been working overtime on a translation piece) he decided to head back to his place and nap while I wandered around Tel Aviv some more and let my clothes dry off with the sun.

The city as a whole is exciting and gorgeous and above all else, just interesting…the buildings are unique and create a style all their own with their cement facades and stucco fronts creating a laid back atmosphere in a country that can be incredibly tense and intense at times. Twisty streets are lined with palm trees and flowers and plants and paved with cut stones; clothing that one no longer wants or needs is just left upon a park bench or a wall for a stranger who may want a skirt, or a shirt, or some designer Diesel underwear (‘eh, someone will pick it up and use it, I’m done with it’) and a multitude of languages are spoken all around you.

In the Shook, there is a smell of fresh produce that just overwhelms the senses. You really have to experience it first hand to understand it, I have no words to do it justice. The fresh baking bread is rolled and baked in front of you, the fresh cut fruits and vegetables are all vibrant and they create a kaleidoscope around you with their wonderful colors. Dogs scurrying around barking and playing with each other (and the children chasing after them) and of course, people everywhere haggling for the best price…all create a cacophony of noise and color that is actually pleasing to the senses rather than alarming or overwhelming. People here are not only practical, but have a wonderful sense of humor and while it’s dry…it keeps you sharp and on your toes. Mostly though, I keep quiet and try to blend into the crowd so I can pay attention and just absorb myself in the language and culture that I find surrounding me.

Everywhere you go here people are on Vespas and Motorcycles or Bikes or Walking or Running or Jogging and the weather is just right to get outside and be active (a stark difference from the cold Buffalo Winters I’ve grown accustomed to after five years at University). Tel Aviv is built for commuters and those who use public transport; which is great given that my preferred method of transportation in any country are my Birkenstocks.

As it turns out, not only am I lucky enough to be in Israel to begin with (which is just, such a blessing to begin with)…but Tel Aviv Pride happens to be this Friday (which I only found out today, by pure chance) and I’ll be attending to show my support for both Israel (who can always use another voice of support) and the LGBT Community here. I’m not sure who the organizers have lined up as entertainment, but I can be reasonably sure that there’ll be good music and dancing and the usual going ons that one finds at Pride.

It is a very weird feeling, walking around going “so this is where it all began…” I have my pocket Tanakh with me acting as one of my historical guides, so to speak and combining that with my map, words of advice from friends, family and the locals I’ve been speaking to…this is lining up to be a wonderful, wonderful trip.

I head to Jerusalem on Sunday by train, instead of bus, so I can take the Scenic route and see some of the country (I’ll be posting photos to my website: nomadmatan.net – shortly). More updates as I can write them.

The current time in Israel is 10:35PM on 2006-June-06; in Long Island, NY it is 3:35PM on 2006-June-06 (there’s a seven-ish hour difference).

Laila Tov! (Goodnight!)

– M

On my way…

moocowinthecity Jun 5, 2007 0 Comments

Aaaaaand he’s off!!

See everyone in July!!

On my way…

moocowinthecity Jun 5, 2007 0 Comments

Aaaaaand he’s off!!

See everyone in July!!

Heading to Israel Soon!

moocowinthecity Jun 4, 2007 0 Comments

I leave the House at 8:30AM via Town Car; I take off at 2:30PM.

I’ll see everyone when I’m back in July!!

Peace All!!

If you need me (and I can’t promise I’ll answer until I’m back) email [email protected]

By all!!

Heading to Israel Soon!

moocowinthecity Jun 4, 2007 0 Comments

I leave the House at 8:30AM via Town Car; I take off at 2:30PM.

I’ll see everyone when I’m back in July!!

Peace All!!

If you need me (and I can’t promise I’ll answer until I’m back) email [email protected]

By all!!

Future Tattoos

moocowinthecity Jun 3, 2007 0 Comments

Gadsden Flag I remember the first time I saw it, I was little (probably six) and we were on a road trip to a historical site (as most of our road trips were) and I remember seeing it and going “Fuck yes!” Fun fact, that Gadsden Flag inspired the first political cartoon in the United States. Left Bicep.

Maple Leaf (I want to get that one with irenefinlay though, so I can make sure it meets Canadian standards). Not sure where.

Schwa (in IPA…yeah, I am that much of a dork) Indside Left Foream.