June 2007

Am Yisrael Chai! (Israel Travelogue V)

moocowinthecity 2007-06-20 No Comments

On Thursday Shirah and I met up at the Tel Aviv Central Bus Station and walked from there to catch a Sherout (I’m sure that my transliteration is off) over to Nazareth. A Sherout is a cheaper, mini-bus-esque alternative ride for those who wish to save a few shekels.

On the way to Nazareth, at a certain point, if you look off into the distance, from the side of the mountain that you’re traveling on, you can see a wonderful patchwork of farms and agriculture – in the dessert, often shown to us in Western Media as being comprised of bones and barren, Israelis have succeeded in creating life (in so many ways); vineyards, and trees, and vegetables all grace the land in a wonderful monochromatic display of defiance against the elements (much like the personality of the natives: success against all odds).

Nazareth is heavily populated with Arabs, and the majority of signs are in Arabic (which was nice, as it let me put my site reading skills to use – this trip, has been incredibly humbling for me, as a soon to be graduated linguist). As we waited at a crossing, I was staring out the window trying to take in all of my surroundings and an old man saw me looking at him through my window and he waved at me and smiled, so I waved and smiled back. He was sitting in front of a coffee shop, a grey fedora on his head, just enjoying the day as he looked at all the people traveling through his town.

Arriving in Nazareth, I was surprised to find that it’s far more hilly than I imagined, but it is beautiful (all of the buildings are a vibrant white). Fabulous Condos are found populating Nazareth Ilit and construction is taking place all over Israel, renovations, restorations and new construction are abound…and it’s a great thing to see such positive growth in the Holy Land.

In Nazareth Ilit, if you ride the bus you get the added bonus of British Humor: rotaries are everywhere and when coupled with Israeli Drivers you get a medically accurate test for heart function.

From Nazareth we headed to Tiberias and made our way to the apartment-esque building that Shirah was staying in (a converted hostel that Oranim is currently using to house their Volunteers). After depositing our bags, we walked down city streets that were inviting with pagodas lining the sides, and music playing as small children danced while others ate ice cream or had their face painted and problems (at least, temporarily) are forgotten by all who walk through this wonderful town.

Walking down, making our way through all the vendors and sloped steps, we climbed over a fence, and made our way, walking across a sand bar, to lay on rocks and look up at the stars. Shirah and I spent a couple of hours relaxing. star gazing, and talking about life as we were surrounded by the Kinnert (also known as the Sea of Galilee). As we were getting ready to return to her place of abode a party boat drove by…with religious, Jewish, techno-remixes of all our favorite songs that we sing at synagogue…quite a party.

Next to the hostel are two twenty-four hour bakeries, one serving loafs of bread (usually for no more than a shekel a loaf) and the other selling pastries by weight (here, even cheaper than the previous bakery!). I had to walk by both regularly on my way to explore, and made a semi-successful attempt to hold my breath for fear of catching the scent of tantalizing food that can only serve to increase my waist size.

Shabbat was spent in quiet reflection and discussion with Shirah as we talked and planned out the next phases of where our lives and academics were going to take each of us, both of us bouncing ideas off of the other. Sunday morning we walked back down to the Kinneret and I saw a woman fishing off of the side to which one can only really remark “if you teach a (wo)man how to fish…”

Saturday night Shirah and I went out to experience some of the night life as we danced the night away at one of the local pubs where we were able to meet up with some fellow friends from Buffalo and I ran into the group of teenage girls that don’t think I speak English despite it being the only language I communicated with them in…it was a wonderful night, with all the local hits being spun by one of their resident DJs. On Sunday, Shirah and I made our way to the beach front, and I walked to the Kinnert and stood in it…and sadly, I must have been wearing the wrong brand of sandals, because I couldn’t walk on it.

Eventually, Shirah and I had to part ways and I made my way down to Meggido and then back to Tel Aviv where I spent two, wonderful, sun filled days at the beach, drifting in and out of sleep as I watched the waves crash on the Mediterranean shore.

Tonight I am sleeping, once again in Jerusalem. This time at a wonderful hostel called the Citadel Youth Hostel, which is built into the walls of Jerusalem providing a wonderful and cool rocky interior for the weary traveler.

Until Next Time, Am Yisrael Chai!

– M

Am Yisrael Chai! (Israel Travelogue V)

moocowinthecity 2007-06-20 No Comments

On Thursday Shirah and I met up at the Tel Aviv Central Bus Station and walked from there to catch a Sherout (I’m sure that my transliteration is off) over to Nazareth. A Sherout is a cheaper, mini-bus-esque alternative ride for those who wish to save a few shekels.

On the way to Nazareth, at a certain point, if you look off into the distance, from the side of the mountain that you’re traveling on, you can see a wonderful patchwork of farms and agriculture – in the dessert, often shown to us in Western Media as being comprised of bones and barren, Israelis have succeeded in creating life (in so many ways); vineyards, and trees, and vegetables all grace the land in a wonderful monochromatic display of defiance against the elements (much like the personality of the natives: success against all odds).

Nazareth is heavily populated with Arabs, and the majority of signs are in Arabic (which was nice, as it let me put my site reading skills to use – this trip, has been incredibly humbling for me, as a soon to be graduated linguist). As we waited at a crossing, I was staring out the window trying to take in all of my surroundings and an old man saw me looking at him through my window and he waved at me and smiled, so I waved and smiled back. He was sitting in front of a coffee shop, a grey fedora on his head, just enjoying the day as he looked at all the people traveling through his town.

Arriving in Nazareth, I was surprised to find that it’s far more hilly than I imagined, but it is beautiful (all of the buildings are a vibrant white). Fabulous Condos are found populating Nazareth Ilit and construction is taking place all over Israel, renovations, restorations and new construction are abound…and it’s a great thing to see such positive growth in the Holy Land.

In Nazareth Ilit, if you ride the bus you get the added bonus of British Humor: rotaries are everywhere and when coupled with Israeli Drivers you get a medically accurate test for heart function.

From Nazareth we headed to Tiberias and made our way to the apartment-esque building that Shirah was staying in (a converted hostel that Oranim is currently using to house their Volunteers). After depositing our bags, we walked down city streets that were inviting with pagodas lining the sides, and music playing as small children danced while others ate ice cream or had their face painted and problems (at least, temporarily) are forgotten by all who walk through this wonderful town.

Walking down, making our way through all the vendors and sloped steps, we climbed over a fence, and made our way, walking across a sand bar, to lay on rocks and look up at the stars. Shirah and I spent a couple of hours relaxing. star gazing, and talking about life as we were surrounded by the Kinnert (also known as the Sea of Galilee). As we were getting ready to return to her place of abode a party boat drove by…with religious, Jewish, techno-remixes of all our favorite songs that we sing at synagogue…quite a party.

Next to the hostel are two twenty-four hour bakeries, one serving loafs of bread (usually for no more than a shekel a loaf) and the other selling pastries by weight (here, even cheaper than the previous bakery!). I had to walk by both regularly on my way to explore, and made a semi-successful attempt to hold my breath for fear of catching the scent of tantalizing food that can only serve to increase my waist size.

Shabbat was spent in quiet reflection and discussion with Shirah as we talked and planned out the next phases of where our lives and academics were going to take each of us, both of us bouncing ideas off of the other. Sunday morning we walked back down to the Kinneret and I saw a woman fishing off of the side to which one can only really remark “if you teach a (wo)man how to fish…”

Saturday night Shirah and I went out to experience some of the night life as we danced the night away at one of the local pubs where we were able to meet up with some fellow friends from Buffalo and I ran into the group of teenage girls that don’t think I speak English despite it being the only language I communicated with them in…it was a wonderful night, with all the local hits being spun by one of their resident DJs. On Sunday, Shirah and I made our way to the beach front, and I walked to the Kinnert and stood in it…and sadly, I must have been wearing the wrong brand of sandals, because I couldn’t walk on it.

Eventually, Shirah and I had to part ways and I made my way down to Meggido and then back to Tel Aviv where I spent two, wonderful, sun filled days at the beach, drifting in and out of sleep as I watched the waves crash on the Mediterranean shore.

Tonight I am sleeping, once again in Jerusalem. This time at a wonderful hostel called the Citadel Youth Hostel, which is built into the walls of Jerusalem providing a wonderful and cool rocky interior for the weary traveler.

Until Next Time, Am Yisrael Chai!

– M

Kippa, Kippa, Kippa (Israel Update IV)

moocowinthecity 2007-06-13 No Comments

On Monday night I made friends with the bunk mate next to me who was from Quebec and we decided to go to Yad Vashem together. We left early Tuesday morning and went for my first day there (I was only able to get through the first half due to time constraints); however, I went back for many hours the next day. I went in hungry, forgoing breakfast and lunch and water because there are some things that you should experience with hunger and thirst and I started back at the beginning.

When you go to Yad Vashem after you walk through security, you walk past luscious green trees that seem to speak to you as the wind blows through them, whispers that you can’t quite make out the words to. You walk across a bridge into a building that comes to a point on top, almost like an extended triangular prism. All the walls around you are cold and stone; this is a place that serves as a dichotomous reminder of death surrounded by the life of Israel.

Everything around you is cold and the walls are vast…surrounded by dozens if not hundreds of people, you find yourself alone (no doubt the intent of the curators). Walking through each of the exhibits, videos translated from German into Hebrew and then again into English play on repeat throughout the halls, showing you documentation that the Nazis took themselves to show to the world when they believed it was time to finally re-write history.

It was hard, and no matter how much you want to look away you have to force yourself to keep going: if my family could bear cold nights at Auschwitz…if they could bear the torture, beatings and rape the least I could do was read every placard, every information card, listen to every video they were showing me…because I know that I would be walking out of the museum again. I was not at risk, my person was not in jeopardy…I do not know, at all, from suffering and this was something that I needed to see.

I was managing to keep myself fairly well composed. For someone who does not often cry, this has been an emotional – usually the good kind – of trip, mostly just being moved by beauty; however, when I saw the two Torahs, desecrated…murdered, next to each other bearing silent witness to crimes of another land, resting in a glass tomb here in Israel I wept…there was nothing I could say, no emotion to cover how I felt: here were two fallen heroes, what Jews around the world have smuggled and hidden in times of danger and at times, have given their life for. Here laying before me, the crown of Jewish Life that provides happiness to all who cling to it, broken. You want to hug them, to hold them, to heal their wounds…but they sit before you in pain, torn, defiled telling in silence their story and they, sadly, have to stay that way…I was not, however, prepared for what would hit me later…I did not think it could have gotten worse from everything that I had already seen
in the first few halls…the living skeletons, ‘doctor’ Mengel’s human experimentation…but it does, it gets worse…so much worse.

As I continued through the exhibits there are countless video screens, each with a person on it, and they are are survivors who are testifying. Their voices will forever be heard to those who seek to deny the mass murder, rape, dehumanization, criminal, cruel and sadistic ‘medical’ experimentation of and on my people (Jewish and Gay) and my family members who died in the Pogroms and the Camps. They are there to tell their story…and you hear it, painfully, loud and clear. All around you photos and names are flashed on walls to remind you that these weren’t figures or statistics…these are people, and I don’t say were…because were implies that they’re gone…and they’re not…through us, they live.

What hit me hardest, though, was a letter that a young teenager wrote on some paper he had in his pocket and threw out of the train on his way to a camp (he thought he would be returning). In the letter, he asked whoever found it to please deliver it to his mother (the address he included on it) so she wouldn’t be worried, and so she would know where he was and for how long he thought he would be gone. It does not matter the country, the generation, or the family…there are certain values and traditions that have been and will forever always be a part of the Jewish community and keeping your family informed about where you are, is one of them. Hundreds (literally) of times my mother has reminded my brothers and I to call in so she should know where we are (just so she would know in case something – God forbid – happened to us…every time we go from building to building, we call and check in “I’m going to the dentist now, and then to the store…I’ll call when my plans
change…”)…and even as a sort-of Adult, I still get reminded. It hit me, hard because it was so Jewish and as this young man was headed to his death (though he didn’t know it), he was certainly scared, crowded on a train…and though he was facing horrors yet unknown…he thought first of his mother and his family, before he thought of himself…I could physically feel my heart breaking.

Continuing through the museum there are countless shoes, clothes, weapons used to beat my people at the camps, documents, photographs, videos all bearing witness to crimes that happened not that long ago. There is no question that we are a people who are survivors (we have survived, and will continue to survive any army that seeks to conquer us, we always have and we will always continue to do so)…I just have no idea if my generation would be strong, educated, savvy and skillful enough (think of the document forgers) to do what was necessary if God forbid we came under attack again…it’s a chilling thought.

Walking further, you approach the hall of the names…where in books, the identities of those who perished are still being collected and recorded…and further, the Righteous Amongst the Nations…those who aren’t Jewish, who risked life, limb, torture, rape and certain death to safeguard my people: these are the bravest of the brave, who did not have to help…but were compelled to because they knew right from wrong and were brave enough to do something about it. How many of us, having a family and children, would be willing to risk the torture, rape and execution of them…for a stranger?

As you exit the museum there is an overlook off the side of the mountain/cliff that it’s on and you can see, again, countless trees…life, right after death…but we are not done yet; walking outside into another building is the Hall of Memories which is a dark room, a hut with open, slatted walls. In the room, on a floor that you look down on are the names of all the camps and a Yarzheit fire burning at all times, in honor and memory of those who died.

Walking from there, you head up to Janus Korczak Square, in memory and honor of Janus Korzack. There is a statue there, of his arms wrapped around the children of the world, trying to protect them and keep them safe. Janus Korczak was the Dr. Seuss of his time, he ran an orphanage…and despite being given amnesty offers twice… he went with his 200 children, as they marched in silence, to the train…and he rode with them, to his death, to the camps so they would not be afraid, so they would not be abandoned: he gave his life so his children would not be scared even as they went to meet death and so they would not meet death alone. I left a rock on his hand on behalf of my Mother. He has become a personal hero for many, my mother and myself included.

However, while Yad Vashem documents the genocide against the Jewish People during the Holocaust it is important to remember that this is not the only genocide that has occurred and that Jews and Gays were not the only victims of the Nazis. The Armenian Genocide which is still denied by many, the Burnings of Pagans and Witches in Europe and in the United States, Darfur (which no one is doing anything about) are just but a few of the Genocides that have occurred.

Walking down from Janus Korcak square I made my way to the Cafeteria so I could get some food and some coffee; I had been there for close to five hours. I then took the bus back to Ben Yehuda street, and walked from there to Jaffa Gate and back into the Old City where I toured around and checked out a couple of museums that were of interest and mostly tried to get a grasp on the day and then went back to the Western Wall to pray.

On my way down, a Kippa Vendor yelled Kippa, Kippa, Kippa, Kippa, Kippa at me, so I just lowered my head so he could see that I had mine on and he smiled at me and laughed. Coming back up from the Western Wall, I ran into a group of students from the United States who were there on a tour. They thought I was a local Israeli and when they asked me I informed them (in English, with a New York Accent) that I was, in fact born and raised in New York and that this was my first ever trip to Israel…they ignored this (very crucial) fact, and they asked me many questions about Israel (most of which I had the Answer to, as I prepare to make Aliyah) and so when they asked what people did in Israel for work I responded that there are the same jobs here as in New York, though here there are some that New York may not have (Shook Cleaner, Kabbalah String Maker, etc)…at which point one girl in the group (perhaps not the sharpest tool in the shed) begins speaking very slowly to me in
English, enunciating (…because, apparently I don’t speak English as my native language…) and says “In OUR Country Most of the jobs are COOOORPOOOORAAAATE…you know…in NEEEW YOOORK”…I tried explaining, again, that I was, in fact, from New York and spoke English…to no avail.

I called Shirah that night and found out that she would be in Tel Aviv for two Days (which would make it easier to meet up with her) so I packed my things up, thanked Heritage House for their hospitality, and on Wednesday (Today) made my way back to Tel Aviv by Bus so I could meet up with her. I met her at the Tel Aviv Central Bus Station and we walked through the Shook on HaHagana street as we caught up with each other and made plans for Thursday.

Thursday (Tomorrow) we’re heading up to Tiberias and stopping in Nazareth on our way there. I’ll be spending a few days in Tiberias with her, seeing the sites and the archeology digs, and exploring that area in more depth before I head to Magido.

I’ll be back in Israel sooner than I thought though. I finish school (in fact, my undergraduate career) on December 7, 2007. Towards the middle of December Shirah and I are going to be doing the Israel Hiking Trail (which takes a month and a half to two months to complete). We’ll be hiking from Northern Israel to Eilat following the Israel Hiking Trail map and markers…and conveniently, February is when all of the Ulpans on the Kibbutzim start so after we’re done in Eilat I’ll be busing to whatever Kibbutz I’m on. This of course means that I have a lot of paperwork to go through beforehand to register, get funding, etc as I prepare for the next stage in my education (mastering Hebrew).

The Temperature in Israel is a Warm high 80s to low 90s and, since I’m 7 hours in the future from you all in New York I can tell you that today will bring wonderful things for all of you (I can also say, for a fact, that I’m more accurate than Miss. Cleo who didn’t see that giant lawsuit coming…).

B’Shalom (in Peace)

– M

Kippa, Kippa, Kippa (Israel Update IV)

moocowinthecity 2007-06-13 No Comments

On Monday night I made friends with the bunk mate next to me who was from Quebec and we decided to go to Yad Vashem together. We left early Tuesday morning and went for my first day there (I was only able to get through the first half due to time constraints); however, I went back for many hours the next day. I went in hungry, forgoing breakfast and lunch and water because there are some things that you should experience with hunger and thirst and I started back at the beginning.

When you go to Yad Vashem after you walk through security, you walk past luscious green trees that seem to speak to you as the wind blows through them, whispers that you can’t quite make out the words to. You walk across a bridge into a building that comes to a point on top, almost like an extended triangular prism. All the walls around you are cold and stone; this is a place that serves as a dichotomous reminder of death surrounded by the life of Israel.

Everything around you is cold and the walls are vast…surrounded by dozens if not hundreds of people, you find yourself alone (no doubt the intent of the curators). Walking through each of the exhibits, videos translated from German into Hebrew and then again into English play on repeat throughout the halls, showing you documentation that the Nazis took themselves to show to the world when they believed it was time to finally re-write history.

It was hard, and no matter how much you want to look away you have to force yourself to keep going: if my family could bear cold nights at Auschwitz…if they could bear the torture, beatings and rape the least I could do was read every placard, every information card, listen to every video they were showing me…because I know that I would be walking out of the museum again. I was not at risk, my person was not in jeopardy…I do not know, at all, from suffering and this was something that I needed to see.

I was managing to keep myself fairly well composed. For someone who does not often cry, this has been an emotional – usually the good kind – of trip, mostly just being moved by beauty; however, when I saw the two Torahs, desecrated…murdered, next to each other bearing silent witness to crimes of another land, resting in a glass tomb here in Israel I wept…there was nothing I could say, no emotion to cover how I felt: here were two fallen heroes, what Jews around the world have smuggled and hidden in times of danger and at times, have given their life for. Here laying before me, the crown of Jewish Life that provides happiness to all who cling to it, broken. You want to hug them, to hold them, to heal their wounds…but they sit before you in pain, torn, defiled telling in silence their story and they, sadly, have to stay that way…I was not, however, prepared for what would hit me later…I did not think it could have gotten worse from everything that I had already seen
in the first few halls…the living skeletons, ‘doctor’ Mengel’s human experimentation…but it does, it gets worse…so much worse.

As I continued through the exhibits there are countless video screens, each with a person on it, and they are are survivors who are testifying. Their voices will forever be heard to those who seek to deny the mass murder, rape, dehumanization, criminal, cruel and sadistic ‘medical’ experimentation of and on my people (Jewish and Gay) and my family members who died in the Pogroms and the Camps. They are there to tell their story…and you hear it, painfully, loud and clear. All around you photos and names are flashed on walls to remind you that these weren’t figures or statistics…these are people, and I don’t say were…because were implies that they’re gone…and they’re not…through us, they live.

What hit me hardest, though, was a letter that a young teenager wrote on some paper he had in his pocket and threw out of the train on his way to a camp (he thought he would be returning). In the letter, he asked whoever found it to please deliver it to his mother (the address he included on it) so she wouldn’t be worried, and so she would know where he was and for how long he thought he would be gone. It does not matter the country, the generation, or the family…there are certain values and traditions that have been and will forever always be a part of the Jewish community and keeping your family informed about where you are, is one of them. Hundreds (literally) of times my mother has reminded my brothers and I to call in so she should know where we are (just so she would know in case something – God forbid – happened to us…every time we go from building to building, we call and check in “I’m going to the dentist now, and then to the store…I’ll call when my plans
change…”)…and even as a sort-of Adult, I still get reminded. It hit me, hard because it was so Jewish and as this young man was headed to his death (though he didn’t know it), he was certainly scared, crowded on a train…and though he was facing horrors yet unknown…he thought first of his mother and his family, before he thought of himself…I could physically feel my heart breaking.

Continuing through the museum there are countless shoes, clothes, weapons used to beat my people at the camps, documents, photographs, videos all bearing witness to crimes that happened not that long ago. There is no question that we are a people who are survivors (we have survived, and will continue to survive any army that seeks to conquer us, we always have and we will always continue to do so)…I just have no idea if my generation would be strong, educated, savvy and skillful enough (think of the document forgers) to do what was necessary if God forbid we came under attack again…it’s a chilling thought.

Walking further, you approach the hall of the names…where in books, the identities of those who perished are still being collected and recorded…and further, the Righteous Amongst the Nations…those who aren’t Jewish, who risked life, limb, torture, rape and certain death to safeguard my people: these are the bravest of the brave, who did not have to help…but were compelled to because they knew right from wrong and were brave enough to do something about it. How many of us, having a family and children, would be willing to risk the torture, rape and execution of them…for a stranger?

As you exit the museum there is an overlook off the side of the mountain/cliff that it’s on and you can see, again, countless trees…life, right after death…but we are not done yet; walking outside into another building is the Hall of Memories which is a dark room, a hut with open, slatted walls. In the room, on a floor that you look down on are the names of all the camps and a Yarzheit fire burning at all times, in honor and memory of those who died.

Walking from there, you head up to Janus Korczak Square, in memory and honor of Janus Korzack. There is a statue there, of his arms wrapped around the children of the world, trying to protect them and keep them safe. Janus Korczak was the Dr. Seuss of his time, he ran an orphanage…and despite being given amnesty offers twice… he went with his 200 children, as they marched in silence, to the train…and he rode with them, to his death, to the camps so they would not be afraid, so they would not be abandoned: he gave his life so his children would not be scared even as they went to meet death and so they would not meet death alone. I left a rock on his hand on behalf of my Mother. He has become a personal hero for many, my mother and myself included.

However, while Yad Vashem documents the genocide against the Jewish People during the Holocaust it is important to remember that this is not the only genocide that has occurred and that Jews and Gays were not the only victims of the Nazis. The Armenian Genocide which is still denied by many, the Burnings of Pagans and Witches in Europe and in the United States, Darfur (which no one is doing anything about) are just but a few of the Genocides that have occurred.

Walking down from Janus Korcak square I made my way to the Cafeteria so I could get some food and some coffee; I had been there for close to five hours. I then took the bus back to Ben Yehuda street, and walked from there to Jaffa Gate and back into the Old City where I toured around and checked out a couple of museums that were of interest and mostly tried to get a grasp on the day and then went back to the Western Wall to pray.

On my way down, a Kippa Vendor yelled Kippa, Kippa, Kippa, Kippa, Kippa at me, so I just lowered my head so he could see that I had mine on and he smiled at me and laughed. Coming back up from the Western Wall, I ran into a group of students from the United States who were there on a tour. They thought I was a local Israeli and when they asked me I informed them (in English, with a New York Accent) that I was, in fact born and raised in New York and that this was my first ever trip to Israel…they ignored this (very crucial) fact, and they asked me many questions about Israel (most of which I had the Answer to, as I prepare to make Aliyah) and so when they asked what people did in Israel for work I responded that there are the same jobs here as in New York, though here there are some that New York may not have (Shook Cleaner, Kabbalah String Maker, etc)…at which point one girl in the group (perhaps not the sharpest tool in the shed) begins speaking very slowly to me in
English, enunciating (…because, apparently I don’t speak English as my native language…) and says “In OUR Country Most of the jobs are COOOORPOOOORAAAATE…you know…in NEEEW YOOORK”…I tried explaining, again, that I was, in fact, from New York and spoke English…to no avail.

I called Shirah that night and found out that she would be in Tel Aviv for two Days (which would make it easier to meet up with her) so I packed my things up, thanked Heritage House for their hospitality, and on Wednesday (Today) made my way back to Tel Aviv by Bus so I could meet up with her. I met her at the Tel Aviv Central Bus Station and we walked through the Shook on HaHagana street as we caught up with each other and made plans for Thursday.

Thursday (Tomorrow) we’re heading up to Tiberias and stopping in Nazareth on our way there. I’ll be spending a few days in Tiberias with her, seeing the sites and the archeology digs, and exploring that area in more depth before I head to Magido.

I’ll be back in Israel sooner than I thought though. I finish school (in fact, my undergraduate career) on December 7, 2007. Towards the middle of December Shirah and I are going to be doing the Israel Hiking Trail (which takes a month and a half to two months to complete). We’ll be hiking from Northern Israel to Eilat following the Israel Hiking Trail map and markers…and conveniently, February is when all of the Ulpans on the Kibbutzim start so after we’re done in Eilat I’ll be busing to whatever Kibbutz I’m on. This of course means that I have a lot of paperwork to go through beforehand to register, get funding, etc as I prepare for the next stage in my education (mastering Hebrew).

The Temperature in Israel is a Warm high 80s to low 90s and, since I’m 7 hours in the future from you all in New York I can tell you that today will bring wonderful things for all of you (I can also say, for a fact, that I’m more accurate than Miss. Cleo who didn’t see that giant lawsuit coming…).

B’Shalom (in Peace)

– M

All Roads Meet in Jerusalem (Israel Update III)

moocowinthecity 2007-06-10 No Comments

Shalom Friends :o)

We left off at Shabbat after shopping at the Shook:

Shabbat was spent at a beautiful Reform Synagogue in Tel Aviv. The walls were bright and yellow and vibrant, and this round room was decorated with prayers in calligraphy on the walls and metal sculptures hung to accent the prayers; you just felt like you were outside in a garden. As the Cantor’s voice resonated throughout the room, a bird who came to join us flew back and forth and after davening a bit, eventually got himself perched where he was comfortable too. The Rabbi, so calm (and, in a lot of ways, like Rabbi Harvey), brought smiles to everyone and while some of the prayers were new, most were very, very familiar. People arrived in shorts, in t-shirts, in wrinkled suit jackets and sandals…and it wasn’t about clothes or looks or labels…it was about spirit, and connection, and rest…”who cares what you’re dressed like, it’s Shabbat, and you’re here, and you’re with us!”…it was truly wonderful to be a part of their congregation and to take part in Shabbat with
them.

After Havadallah on Saturday I packed for Sunday.

Early Sunday morning, after some breakfast, we took the bus from Tel Aviv and made our way into the center of Jerusalem. We stopped to pick up a few things I needed, and then we headed over to Jaffa Gate…and we walked on through…and then, we were in Jerusalem, in the Old City. We continued down slick stone steps, slowly, with all of their twists and turns, walking under awnings and porches and past iron gates, and we arrived at the Western Wall…I was finally ‘home’.

After washing my hands, I approached the wall and leaned on it, I kissed the wall and emotions just overcame me as I cried with happiness…I was (I am!) in Jerusalem, in the Old City and as tears strolled down my cheek I prayed and felt such a calmness run throughout my body and my soul (and if you gave me a prayer to leave in the wall, it was tucked into the wall, safe and sound).

As I prayed and cried, an older man placed his hand upon my head and said a prayer for me (which I thanked him for) and then I made my way into the underground area where I prayed some more and read from the book of Psalms.

After about an hour we got up to explore some more, and as we were leaving I ran into a friend of Rabbi Gurary who is the Rabbi I know on the University at Buffalo’s Campus (Rabbi G: Shmuli Weiss from Jerusalem says “hi!”) and later I would run into the gentleman who I shared a seat with on the El Al flight here (also at the Western Wall)…all roads really do cross in Jerusalem, and I’ve already made some new friends here so hopefully our paths will cross, and cross again.

We had lunch at the Austrian Hospice in Jerusalem where I got to use one of the two German words I know (“Danke”) and enjoyed some good food. We made our way to the Muslim Quarter, and walked through the Arabic Shook where the smell of resin and incense fills you and ignites your imagination (and magic, flying carpets are everywhere…no, really if you don’t believe me, go and see for yourself…they even let you take them for a test ride), and wonderful food is cooking in every window next to stores that sell the latest in both religious and western fashion (lots, and lots of designer underwear in the Arabic Shook. which sort of took me by surprise). We walked through the Jewish Quarter as well and enjoyed the sound and smell of their markets and made our way through the Christian Quarter and their markets…until we approached an ancient church, and entered. The church has been around (if I recall correctly, from about 218 A.C.E.) and as we walked through, the solemn
calmness of this cavernous, mostly underground church overcomes you and you stand in Awe.

I purchased two candles from the priest (a Shekel each) and I lit them (one for Debbie and one for Voula, who I worked with at the Pharmacy back home). After this Itai and I sat for some rest, and then we got some dinner and talked some more. After dinner we said our goodbyes as he went to head back to Tel Aviv and I went to go register at Heritage House which is a free youth hostel for Jewish Travelers; less than a two minute walking distance from The Wall. I walked in, and they were the most friendly people (friendly and genuine) right from the start. The hostel is lovely, and clean and very much in the style of Jerusalem, with a garden and a porch and the inside of the house becomes outside and vice-versa (much like an Escher drawing, actually). There’s a lounge (and a computer with free Internet that I’m typing to you on).

The person sharing my dormitory with me is lovely, he’s French and Israeli and speaks French and Hebrew and very, very little English which is just great. Other people staying in the Hostel are fun too and we’ve been hanging out downstairs talking, getting to know each other, and having just a marvelous time.

Heritage House closes at 9am daily (which is when they lock all the doors and everyone leaves to go explore for the day) and re-opens their doors at 7:00pm, and then closes down the front door again at 12:00am (1:30am on Shabbat) so it’s incredibly, incredibly convenient, safe and welcoming.

If Tel Aviv, which is beautiful and almost beyond compare, can be described as Silver…it exists to hold up, to set, the Diamond that is Jerusalem.

Tomorrow will be a somber day as I will be heading to Yad Vashem to see the Holocaust Museum and the Memorials. Tuesday will be spent getting lost in Jerusalem so I can learn it by foot (and taking plenty of photographs) and the rest of the week (except for Shabbat) is pretty much up for grabs: I have plenty of sites outlined on my map that I want to see, and I’m sure after I’m done seeing those I’ll discover some more along the way.

Tomorrow (the 11th) is also my Father’s birthday, so Happy Birthday Dad!

More updates as I have them!

Love,

M

All Roads Meet in Jerusalem (Israel Update III)

moocowinthecity 2007-06-10 No Comments

Shalom Friends :o)

We left off at Shabbat after shopping at the Shook:

Shabbat was spent at a beautiful Reform Synagogue in Tel Aviv. The walls were bright and yellow and vibrant, and this round room was decorated with prayers in calligraphy on the walls and metal sculptures hung to accent the prayers; you just felt like you were outside in a garden. As the Cantor’s voice resonated throughout the room, a bird who came to join us flew back and forth and after davening a bit, eventually got himself perched where he was comfortable too. The Rabbi, so calm (and, in a lot of ways, like Rabbi Harvey), brought smiles to everyone and while some of the prayers were new, most were very, very familiar. People arrived in shorts, in t-shirts, in wrinkled suit jackets and sandals…and it wasn’t about clothes or looks or labels…it was about spirit, and connection, and rest…”who cares what you’re dressed like, it’s Shabbat, and you’re here, and you’re with us!”…it was truly wonderful to be a part of their congregation and to take part in Shabbat with
them.

After Havadallah on Saturday I packed for Sunday.

Early Sunday morning, after some breakfast, we took the bus from Tel Aviv and made our way into the center of Jerusalem. We stopped to pick up a few things I needed, and then we headed over to Jaffa Gate…and we walked on through…and then, we were in Jerusalem, in the Old City. We continued down slick stone steps, slowly, with all of their twists and turns, walking under awnings and porches and past iron gates, and we arrived at the Western Wall…I was finally ‘home’.

After washing my hands, I approached the wall and leaned on it, I kissed the wall and emotions just overcame me as I cried with happiness…I was (I am!) in Jerusalem, in the Old City and as tears strolled down my cheek I prayed and felt such a calmness run throughout my body and my soul (and if you gave me a prayer to leave in the wall, it was tucked into the wall, safe and sound).

As I prayed and cried, an older man placed his hand upon my head and said a prayer for me (which I thanked him for) and then I made my way into the underground area where I prayed some more and read from the book of Psalms.

After about an hour we got up to explore some more, and as we were leaving I ran into a friend of Rabbi Gurary who is the Rabbi I know on the University at Buffalo’s Campus (Rabbi G: Shmuli Weiss from Jerusalem says “hi!”) and later I would run into the gentleman who I shared a seat with on the El Al flight here (also at the Western Wall)…all roads really do cross in Jerusalem, and I’ve already made some new friends here so hopefully our paths will cross, and cross again.

We had lunch at the Austrian Hospice in Jerusalem where I got to use one of the two German words I know (“Danke”) and enjoyed some good food. We made our way to the Muslim Quarter, and walked through the Arabic Shook where the smell of resin and incense fills you and ignites your imagination (and magic, flying carpets are everywhere…no, really if you don’t believe me, go and see for yourself…they even let you take them for a test ride), and wonderful food is cooking in every window next to stores that sell the latest in both religious and western fashion (lots, and lots of designer underwear in the Arabic Shook. which sort of took me by surprise). We walked through the Jewish Quarter as well and enjoyed the sound and smell of their markets and made our way through the Christian Quarter and their markets…until we approached an ancient church, and entered. The church has been around (if I recall correctly, from about 218 A.C.E.) and as we walked through, the solemn
calmness of this cavernous, mostly underground church overcomes you and you stand in Awe.

I purchased two candles from the priest (a Shekel each) and I lit them (one for Debbie and one for Voula, who I worked with at the Pharmacy back home). After this Itai and I sat for some rest, and then we got some dinner and talked some more. After dinner we said our goodbyes as he went to head back to Tel Aviv and I went to go register at Heritage House which is a free youth hostel for Jewish Travelers; less than a two minute walking distance from The Wall. I walked in, and they were the most friendly people (friendly and genuine) right from the start. The hostel is lovely, and clean and very much in the style of Jerusalem, with a garden and a porch and the inside of the house becomes outside and vice-versa (much like an Escher drawing, actually). There’s a lounge (and a computer with free Internet that I’m typing to you on).

The person sharing my dormitory with me is lovely, he’s French and Israeli and speaks French and Hebrew and very, very little English which is just great. Other people staying in the Hostel are fun too and we’ve been hanging out downstairs talking, getting to know each other, and having just a marvelous time.

Heritage House closes at 9am daily (which is when they lock all the doors and everyone leaves to go explore for the day) and re-opens their doors at 7:00pm, and then closes down the front door again at 12:00am (1:30am on Shabbat) so it’s incredibly, incredibly convenient, safe and welcoming.

If Tel Aviv, which is beautiful and almost beyond compare, can be described as Silver…it exists to hold up, to set, the Diamond that is Jerusalem.

Tomorrow will be a somber day as I will be heading to Yad Vashem to see the Holocaust Museum and the Memorials. Tuesday will be spent getting lost in Jerusalem so I can learn it by foot (and taking plenty of photographs) and the rest of the week (except for Shabbat) is pretty much up for grabs: I have plenty of sites outlined on my map that I want to see, and I’m sure after I’m done seeing those I’ll discover some more along the way.

Tomorrow (the 11th) is also my Father’s birthday, so Happy Birthday Dad!

More updates as I have them!

Love,

M

Israel Update 2/Shabbat Shalom!

moocowinthecity 2007-06-08 No Comments

Yesterday (Thursday) I went with Itai first to Tel Aviv University and saw the campus…which is more of a resort, really; not that serious academic work doesn’t get done there, just that the campus looks and feels like it should be a part of Club Med (couches, coffee bars a plenty and palm trees are everywhere). There are gorgeous buildings and a breath taking synagogue on campus designed with beautiful wood furnishings.

There are also a lot of Campus Cats that just sort of lounge about the way that cats manage to do and I can imagine provide much needed distraction and comfort during exam times (something that I personally think UB should start to think about…we can start by adding some Cats to the libraries, and if that works well, then we can add them to the Student Union as well).

After checking out the campus and looking around we made our way down to Jaffa.

Jaffa is south of Tel Aviv and has wonderful old buildings and stone steps; signs are in Arabic as much as they are in Hebrew and the smell of coffee is always on the tip of your nose. Here too, scooters and motorcycles whiz by and dogs and cats walk freely around (all quite friendly and wanting to come up and say hello with a wagging tail and a licking tongue). With a history that includes Napoleon, there are signs everywhere documenting the past to modern day/present and there are countless restaurants to choose from if you should get hungry (though I’ve found, overall, that I much prefer the street food; not only is it cheaper and healthier — depending what you eat — but it’s tastier too!).

We stopped inside a little cafe/bookstore which I’m told is owned jointly by an Arab and a Jew; which in its own, quiet way sends a message. As we were walking back to where we needed to catch we randomly got caught up in a street festival! There were performance artists and dancers and vendors and everything you should expect from a street fair. There was also a wonderful fresh fruit drink stand where they would mix whatever fruit you wanted with ice water for you to drink on the spot (I recommend Plum and Cantaloupe) which is something that, while delicious, for the sake of my waist I think I’ll be only having as a rare treat. I also sampled some Almond Juice which was on par with Ambrosia, should you have the opportunity to try it.

Hopping on a bus to take us back to where we needed to go, the bus driver asked my friend where I was from, and when he heard I was from New York he told me all about his family in Queens. We spoke at some length and he was proud to tell me how he learned English by speaking to travelers and all about his wife and children (whom he clearly adores)…and it was wonderful. His English was top notch too.

Arriving back into the area where I’m staying I dropped off some of my things and Itai went to rest while I headed out to Club diva where the bartenders are fun and welcoming, the music nice and loud and a mixture of Israeli Pop and 90’s Pop from the U.S. are spun.

Friday (Today)

We woke up and had breakfast and headed down to Rabin Square and then over to Gordon Beach for Gay Pride. The Rainbow flags flying next to the Israeli flags were flying everywhere, beautiful people of all genders and orientations walking around and music was playing (music, I’ve found, is an integral part of life here in Tel Aviv, it’s playing wherever you go) and it was just awesome to see! Apparently 15,000 people attended which is certainly something.

After seeing the sites we came back up and went to the Shook before it closed to get food for the weekend and to make Shabbat Dinner (the produce is so fresh and the bread that I described earlier is flaky and just far too tasty to be anywhere near good for you!). We’ll be heading to Synagogue for services shortly and then back to his apartment to eat.

Sunday

On Sunday I’ll be saying Goodbye to Itai in Tel Aviv for awhile and heading East to Jerusalem where I’ll be staying for a little over a week by train (the 10th through the 18th) and then heading up to Nazareth on the 19th where I’ll be staying with my friend Shirah (who I went to High School with and who I took Arabic with at University) who is living there now…and then I’ll work out the rest of my game plan!

Shabbat Shalom!

– M

Israel Update 2/Shabbat Shalom!

moocowinthecity 2007-06-08 No Comments

Yesterday (Thursday) I went with Itai first to Tel Aviv University and saw the campus…which is more of a resort, really; not that serious academic work doesn’t get done there, just that the campus looks and feels like it should be a part of Club Med (couches, coffee bars a plenty and palm trees are everywhere). There are gorgeous buildings and a breath taking synagogue on campus designed with beautiful wood furnishings.

There are also a lot of Campus Cats that just sort of lounge about the way that cats manage to do and I can imagine provide much needed distraction and comfort during exam times (something that I personally think UB should start to think about…we can start by adding some Cats to the libraries, and if that works well, then we can add them to the Student Union as well).

After checking out the campus and looking around we made our way down to Jaffa.

Jaffa is south of Tel Aviv and has wonderful old buildings and stone steps; signs are in Arabic as much as they are in Hebrew and the smell of coffee is always on the tip of your nose. Here too, scooters and motorcycles whiz by and dogs and cats walk freely around (all quite friendly and wanting to come up and say hello with a wagging tail and a licking tongue). With a history that includes Napoleon, there are signs everywhere documenting the past to modern day/present and there are countless restaurants to choose from if you should get hungry (though I’ve found, overall, that I much prefer the street food; not only is it cheaper and healthier — depending what you eat — but it’s tastier too!).

We stopped inside a little cafe/bookstore which I’m told is owned jointly by an Arab and a Jew; which in its own, quiet way sends a message. As we were walking back to where we needed to catch we randomly got caught up in a street festival! There were performance artists and dancers and vendors and everything you should expect from a street fair. There was also a wonderful fresh fruit drink stand where they would mix whatever fruit you wanted with ice water for you to drink on the spot (I recommend Plum and Cantaloupe) which is something that, while delicious, for the sake of my waist I think I’ll be only having as a rare treat. I also sampled some Almond Juice which was on par with Ambrosia, should you have the opportunity to try it.

Hopping on a bus to take us back to where we needed to go, the bus driver asked my friend where I was from, and when he heard I was from New York he told me all about his family in Queens. We spoke at some length and he was proud to tell me how he learned English by speaking to travelers and all about his wife and children (whom he clearly adores)…and it was wonderful. His English was top notch too.

Arriving back into the area where I’m staying I dropped off some of my things and Itai went to rest while I headed out to Club diva where the bartenders are fun and welcoming, the music nice and loud and a mixture of Israeli Pop and 90’s Pop from the U.S. are spun.

Friday (Today)

We woke up and had breakfast and headed down to Rabin Square and then over to Gordon Beach for Gay Pride. The Rainbow flags flying next to the Israeli flags were flying everywhere, beautiful people of all genders and orientations walking around and music was playing (music, I’ve found, is an integral part of life here in Tel Aviv, it’s playing wherever you go) and it was just awesome to see! Apparently 15,000 people attended which is certainly something.

After seeing the sites we came back up and went to the Shook before it closed to get food for the weekend and to make Shabbat Dinner (the produce is so fresh and the bread that I described earlier is flaky and just far too tasty to be anywhere near good for you!). We’ll be heading to Synagogue for services shortly and then back to his apartment to eat.

Sunday

On Sunday I’ll be saying Goodbye to Itai in Tel Aviv for awhile and heading East to Jerusalem where I’ll be staying for a little over a week by train (the 10th through the 18th) and then heading up to Nazareth on the 19th where I’ll be staying with my friend Shirah (who I went to High School with and who I took Arabic with at University) who is living there now…and then I’ll work out the rest of my game plan!

Shabbat Shalom!

– M

Israel Update 1

moocowinthecity 2007-06-06 No Comments

Hello All,

Today I landed at Ben-Gurion International Airport in Tel Aviv, Israel at 8:00AM. Next to me on the flight was a wonderful educator named Sholom who was incredibly encouraging and gave me some wonderful words of advice and was just a friendly travel companion. There were so many children on the plane and they were all well behaved (some better behaved than their parents!). The flight staff was wonderful, the food actually edible, and mostly I either listened to Israeli Music on my iPod (HaDag NaChash, Subliminal, Ivri Lider and more on the Top 40 list who I can’t remember at the moment) or I slept.

After a quick stop at passport control and customs I made my way to the main greeting area and met up with my friend Itai (a fellow Linguist). After some much needed coffee (which they make nice and strong here) I was ready to start the day and we made our way on the Tel Aviv Train to HaHagana Street Station where I’ll be staying for the first few days (with my gracious host) before I head East to Jerusalem on Sunday (where I’ll be staying at Heritage House) and then north to HaZareah and Nazareth (where I’ll be staying at the Fauzi Azar Inn).

After dropping off my things and showering (after a 9+ hour flight, it’s really better to de-grunge before trying to make new friends in a new country…otherwise, they sort of stand a few feet back and make funny faces at you) we made our way two stops over from the HaHagana Street Station to Arlozorov and strolled through the city as I got myself oriented to the area (water goes left, Jerusalem goes right, Nazareth is up, Eilat is down).

After a quick stop for some Falafel (authentic, even!) we walked thirty minutes to the Beach (the first time I’ve seen the other side of the Atlantic in my life) and I dove in, shorts, t-shirt and all. The water here is crystal clear, you can see perfectly the zig-zagging sand on the bottom as it’s shaped by the waves. The weather is nice and warm and there’s plenty of sun to go around. I swam for about an hour, letting the waves rock me back and forth on my back and while my friend napped, I just relaxed, floating around and taking in all of the people sunbathing (beauty here, is everywhere…I’ve never seen anything like it). I have been more relaxed here, today than I have been anywhere else in months. After I was done swimming in the ocean (and properly soaked) I walked around the beach and eventually wanted to explore some more. Since Itai was tired (rightfully so, he’s been working overtime on a translation piece) he decided to head back to his place and nap while I wandered around Tel Aviv some more and let my clothes dry off with the sun.

The city as a whole is exciting and gorgeous and above all else, just interesting…the buildings are unique and create a style all their own with their cement facades and stucco fronts creating a laid back atmosphere in a country that can be incredibly tense and intense at times. Twisty streets are lined with palm trees and flowers and plants and paved with cut stones; clothing that one no longer wants or needs is just left upon a park bench or a wall for a stranger who may want a skirt, or a shirt, or some designer Diesel underwear (‘eh, someone will pick it up and use it, I’m done with it’) and a multitude of languages are spoken all around you.

In the Shook, there is a smell of fresh produce that just overwhelms the senses. You really have to experience it first hand to understand it, I have no words to do it justice. The fresh baking bread is rolled and baked in front of you, the fresh cut fruits and vegetables are all vibrant and they create a kaleidoscope around you with their wonderful colors. Dogs scurrying around barking and playing with each other (and the children chasing after them) and of course, people everywhere haggling for the best price…all create a cacophony of noise and color that is actually pleasing to the senses rather than alarming or overwhelming. People here are not only practical, but have a wonderful sense of humor and while it’s dry…it keeps you sharp and on your toes. Mostly though, I keep quiet and try to blend into the crowd so I can pay attention and just absorb myself in the language and culture that I find surrounding me.

Everywhere you go here people are on Vespas and Motorcycles or Bikes or Walking or Running or Jogging and the weather is just right to get outside and be active (a stark difference from the cold Buffalo Winters I’ve grown accustomed to after five years at University). Tel Aviv is built for commuters and those who use public transport; which is great given that my preferred method of transportation in any country are my Birkenstocks.

As it turns out, not only am I lucky enough to be in Israel to begin with (which is just, such a blessing to begin with)…but Tel Aviv Pride happens to be this Friday (which I only found out today, by pure chance) and I’ll be attending to show my support for both Israel (who can always use another voice of support) and the LGBT Community here. I’m not sure who the organizers have lined up as entertainment, but I can be reasonably sure that there’ll be good music and dancing and the usual going ons that one finds at Pride.

It is a very weird feeling, walking around going “so this is where it all began…” I have my pocket Tanakh with me acting as one of my historical guides, so to speak and combining that with my map, words of advice from friends, family and the locals I’ve been speaking to…this is lining up to be a wonderful, wonderful trip.

I head to Jerusalem on Sunday by train, instead of bus, so I can take the Scenic route and see some of the country (I’ll be posting photos to my website: nomadmatan.net – shortly). More updates as I can write them.

The current time in Israel is 10:35PM on 2006-June-06; in Long Island, NY it is 3:35PM on 2006-June-06 (there’s a seven-ish hour difference).

Laila Tov! (Goodnight!)

– M

Israel Update 1

moocowinthecity 2007-06-06 No Comments

Hello All,

Today I landed at Ben-Gurion International Airport in Tel Aviv, Israel at 8:00AM. Next to me on the flight was a wonderful educator named Sholom who was incredibly encouraging and gave me some wonderful words of advice and was just a friendly travel companion. There were so many children on the plane and they were all well behaved (some better behaved than their parents!). The flight staff was wonderful, the food actually edible, and mostly I either listened to Israeli Music on my iPod (HaDag NaChash, Subliminal, Ivri Lider and more on the Top 40 list who I can’t remember at the moment) or I slept.

After a quick stop at passport control and customs I made my way to the main greeting area and met up with my friend Itai (a fellow Linguist). After some much needed coffee (which they make nice and strong here) I was ready to start the day and we made our way on the Tel Aviv Train to HaHagana Street Station where I’ll be staying for the first few days (with my gracious host) before I head East to Jerusalem on Sunday (where I’ll be staying at Heritage House) and then north to HaZareah and Nazareth (where I’ll be staying at the Fauzi Azar Inn).

After dropping off my things and showering (after a 9+ hour flight, it’s really better to de-grunge before trying to make new friends in a new country…otherwise, they sort of stand a few feet back and make funny faces at you) we made our way two stops over from the HaHagana Street Station to Arlozorov and strolled through the city as I got myself oriented to the area (water goes left, Jerusalem goes right, Nazareth is up, Eilat is down).

After a quick stop for some Falafel (authentic, even!) we walked thirty minutes to the Beach (the first time I’ve seen the other side of the Atlantic in my life) and I dove in, shorts, t-shirt and all. The water here is crystal clear, you can see perfectly the zig-zagging sand on the bottom as it’s shaped by the waves. The weather is nice and warm and there’s plenty of sun to go around. I swam for about an hour, letting the waves rock me back and forth on my back and while my friend napped, I just relaxed, floating around and taking in all of the people sunbathing (beauty here, is everywhere…I’ve never seen anything like it). I have been more relaxed here, today than I have been anywhere else in months. After I was done swimming in the ocean (and properly soaked) I walked around the beach and eventually wanted to explore some more. Since Itai was tired (rightfully so, he’s been working overtime on a translation piece) he decided to head back to his place and nap while I wandered around Tel Aviv some more and let my clothes dry off with the sun.

The city as a whole is exciting and gorgeous and above all else, just interesting…the buildings are unique and create a style all their own with their cement facades and stucco fronts creating a laid back atmosphere in a country that can be incredibly tense and intense at times. Twisty streets are lined with palm trees and flowers and plants and paved with cut stones; clothing that one no longer wants or needs is just left upon a park bench or a wall for a stranger who may want a skirt, or a shirt, or some designer Diesel underwear (‘eh, someone will pick it up and use it, I’m done with it’) and a multitude of languages are spoken all around you.

In the Shook, there is a smell of fresh produce that just overwhelms the senses. You really have to experience it first hand to understand it, I have no words to do it justice. The fresh baking bread is rolled and baked in front of you, the fresh cut fruits and vegetables are all vibrant and they create a kaleidoscope around you with their wonderful colors. Dogs scurrying around barking and playing with each other (and the children chasing after them) and of course, people everywhere haggling for the best price…all create a cacophony of noise and color that is actually pleasing to the senses rather than alarming or overwhelming. People here are not only practical, but have a wonderful sense of humor and while it’s dry…it keeps you sharp and on your toes. Mostly though, I keep quiet and try to blend into the crowd so I can pay attention and just absorb myself in the language and culture that I find surrounding me.

Everywhere you go here people are on Vespas and Motorcycles or Bikes or Walking or Running or Jogging and the weather is just right to get outside and be active (a stark difference from the cold Buffalo Winters I’ve grown accustomed to after five years at University). Tel Aviv is built for commuters and those who use public transport; which is great given that my preferred method of transportation in any country are my Birkenstocks.

As it turns out, not only am I lucky enough to be in Israel to begin with (which is just, such a blessing to begin with)…but Tel Aviv Pride happens to be this Friday (which I only found out today, by pure chance) and I’ll be attending to show my support for both Israel (who can always use another voice of support) and the LGBT Community here. I’m not sure who the organizers have lined up as entertainment, but I can be reasonably sure that there’ll be good music and dancing and the usual going ons that one finds at Pride.

It is a very weird feeling, walking around going “so this is where it all began…” I have my pocket Tanakh with me acting as one of my historical guides, so to speak and combining that with my map, words of advice from friends, family and the locals I’ve been speaking to…this is lining up to be a wonderful, wonderful trip.

I head to Jerusalem on Sunday by train, instead of bus, so I can take the Scenic route and see some of the country (I’ll be posting photos to my website: nomadmatan.net – shortly). More updates as I can write them.

The current time in Israel is 10:35PM on 2006-June-06; in Long Island, NY it is 3:35PM on 2006-June-06 (there’s a seven-ish hour difference).

Laila Tov! (Goodnight!)

– M